 Globally
renown for its shore temples, Mahabalipuram was the second capital
of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram. 58 kilometres from Madras on
the Bay of Bengal, this tiny sea - side village of Mahabalipuram,
is set in a boulder - strewn landscape. Tourists are drawn to this
place by its miles of unspoiled beach and rock-cut art. The sculpture,
here, is particularly interesting because it shows scenes of day-to-
day life, in contrast with the rest of the state of Tamil Nadu,
where the carvings generally depict gods and goddesses
Mahabalipuram art can be divided into four categories : open air
bas - relief, structured temples, man-made caves and rathas ('chariots'
carved from single boulders, to resemble temples or chariots used
in temple processions). The famous Arjuna's Penance and the Krishna
Mandapa, adorn massive rocks near the centre of the village. The
beautiful Shore Temple towers over the waves, behind a protective
breakwater. Sixteen man-made caves in different stages of completion
are also seen, scattered through the area.
History
The temples of Mamallapuram, built largely during the reigns of
Narasimhavarman and his successor Rajasimhavarman, showcase the
movement from rock-cut architecture to structural building. The
mandapas or pavilions and the rathas or shrines shaped as temple
chariots are hewn from the granite rock face, while the famed
Shore Temple, erected half a century later, is built from dressed
what makes Mamallapuram so culturally resonant are the influences
it absorbs and disseminates.
All but one of the rathas from the first phase of Pallava architecture
are modelled on the Budhist viharas or monasteries and chaitya
halls with several cells arranged around a courtyard. Art historian
Percy Brown, in fact, traces the possible roots of the Pallavan
Mandapas to the similar rock-cut caves of Ajanta and Ellora. Referring
to Narasimhavarman's victory in AD 642 over the Chalukyan king
Pulakesin II, Brown says the Pallavan king may have brought the
sculptors and artisans back to Kanchi and Mamallapuram as 'spoils
of war'.
Temples in Mahabalipuram
There are, or rather were, two low hills in Mahabalipuram, about
400m from the sea. In the larger one, on both sides, there are
eleven excavated temples, called Mandapas, two "open air
bas reliefs", one of which is unfinished, and a third enclosed
one. Out of a big rock standing free nearby there is a "cut
out" temple, called a "Ratha". This type is unique
to Mahabalipuram.
Out of the other hill, much smaller and standing about 200m to
the south, are fashioned five more rathas, and three big sculptures
of a Nandi, a Loin and an Elephant. On the top of the bigger hill
there is a structural temple, and a little distance the magnificent
beginnings of a Vijayanagar Gopura and also survivals of what
is believed to be a palace.
Shore Temple
Perched on a rocky outcrop, it presides over the shoreline, serving,
as Percy Brown puts its, 'a landmark by day and a beacon by night'.
Designed to catch the first rays of the rising sun and to illuminate
the waters after dark, the temple ended up with an unusual lay-out.
As the main shrine faces the sea on the east, the gateway, the
fore count and the assembly hall of the Shore Temple all lie behind
the sanctum.
Unusual, too, is the fact that the temple has shrine to both
Shiva and Vishnu. The main sanctum and one of the two lesser ones
on the west are dedicated to Shiva. The enclosing wall has a series
of Nandi bulls on it.
Interconnected cisterns around the temple meant that the sea
could be let in to transform the temple into a water shrine. But,
in recent times, a stone wall as been added to protect the shrine
from the rising seas and further erosion.
Mandapas
The main hill at Mamallapuram is dotted with pillared halls carved
into the rock face. These mandapas, with their graceful columns
and intricate figure sculptures bear witness to the artistry of
the Pallavan rock cutter. The ten pavilions at Mamallapuram, of
which two are unfinished, were designed as shrine, with a sanctum
and on outer hall. The shallow porticoes are adorned with exquisite
sculptures of gods, goddesses and mythological figures.
The Ganesh mandapa is an active shrine even today, with the idol
of the elephant-god being revered by the faithful, fourteen centuries
after it was first consecrated.
Beyond the circular rock called Krishna's Butterball is the Varaha
mandapa dedicated to the two avatars of Vishnu as Varaha the boar
and Vamana the dwarf. The pillars of this pavilion are perhaps
the earliest to display a motif that became the signature of southern
architecture-the lion pilaster, where a heraldic lion support
ornamental pillar. The Mahishasuramardini mandapa has the goddess
Durga in bas relief, slaying a buffalo-headed demon, and the Vishnu
Sayana Mandapa shows Lord Vishnu lying under the protective hood
of the seven-headed serpent Adishesha.
Of the other mandapas, the Panch Pandava mandapa, that is unfinished,
has a more elaborate facade. Its pillars are adorned with rearing
lions springing from the capital, and the shrine is the only one
surrounded by a passage which allows circumvolutions.
Rathas
The eight rathas are monolithic temples fashioned as chariots.
They remain an architectural mystery, for each is apparently a
faithful reproduction of a structure built of wood. In fact, even
the grain of the timber beams and rafters has been simulated in
stone.
Of the eight rathas, five have been named for the Pandava brothers,
the heroes of the epic Mahabharata, and their shared wife, Draupadi.
The largest is the Dharmaraja ratha and it sets the tone for the
others. Modelled on a Buddhist vihara or monastery, it sports
a square hall topped by a vaulting roof. The Bhima, Arjuna and
Nakula-Sahdeva rathas are lesser copies of the Dharmaraja ratha.
The Draupadi ratha is the smallest and the quaintest. It is simple
structure, fashioned as a thatched hut borned on the backs of
elephants and lions. It was probably the fascimile of a portable
village shrine.
The fact that many of the temples and sculptures of Mamallapuram
are unfinished, points to the sudden withdrawal of patronage from
rock-cut temples when King Rajasimhavarman came to power.
How to get there
Air
Chennai (58-km) is the nearest airport with both domestic and
international terminus. Chennai is connected with all the major
places in India through the numerous domestic flights. International
flights operate from various parts of the world to Chennai.
Rail
The nearest railway stations are Chengalpattu (29-km) and Chennai
(58-km). From these stations one has to take road to reach the
Mahabalipuram.
Road
Buses are available from Pondicherry, Kanchipuram, Chengalpattu
and Chennai to Mahabalipuram daily. The road to Mahabalipuram
is good. Tourists can also hire a taxi from Chennai.
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Your Itinerary for Mahabalipuram
(Chennai - Tirupati - Chennai - Mahabalipuram - Tanjore - Trichy
- Madurai - Rameshwaram - Trivandrum (14 DAYS))
Day 1 : Arrive Chennai
You will be met and assisted at the airport or station on arrival.
Transfer to your hotel. Relax for the day. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 2 : Chennai - Tirupati
By road covering 140 km in approx. 3 hr Breakfast at hotel. Transfer
to Tirupati. Tirupati - A temple and pilgrim town. On arrival,
check in at hotel. In the afternoon proceed for Darshan of LORD
BALAJI. Overnight at Tirupati.
Day 3 : Tirupati - Chennai
By road covering 140 km in approx. 3 hr After breakfast, proceed
for Chennai. Check in at hotel in Chennai. Relax in the evening.
Overnight at Chennai.
Day 4 : Chennai - Mahabalipuram
By Road Covering 58 Km in approx. 1 hr Breakfast at hotel. Proceed
for Mahabalipuram by surface. On arrival, check in at hotel. In
the afternoon sight seeing of Mahabalipuram - famous for the seven
pagodas. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 5 : Mahabalipuram
After breakfast, proceed for morning sight seeing. Overnight at
hotel.
Day 6 : Mahabalipuram - Tanjore
By road covering 309 km in approx. 7 hr Breakfast at hotel. Leave
for Tanjore. Reach and relax at hotel. In the afternoon drive
to Tanjore also known as Thanjavur (The rice bowl of TAMIL NADU).
Proceed for sight seeing of Tanjore. Overnight at hotel.
Day 7 : Tanjore - Trichy - Tanjore
Full Day excursion Breakfast at hotel. Full day excursion to the
city of Trichy. Visit the ancient temples dedicated to Lord Ganapathi,
434 steps cut out into the rock side and interspersed with shrines,
lead to the temple. Return to hotel and relax. Overnight at hotel.
Day 8 : Tanjore
Breakfast at hotel. See the beautiful Chola temple of Brihadeeshwara.
Relax in the evening. Overnight at hotel.
Day 9 : Tanjore - Madurai
By road covering 183 km in approx. 4 hr Later leave for Madurai
by surface and en route visit Karaikudi (Chettinad). On arrival,
transfer to hotel and relax. Overnight at Madurai.
Day 10 : Madurai
Breakfast at hotel.Freshen up and by afternoon visit the famous
Madurai Meenakshi temple (dedicated to the consort of Lord Shiva
with its towering GOPURAMS) .Watch the evening AARTI at Meenakshi
Temple - THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE TOUR. Overnight at Madurai.
Day 11 : Rameshwaram
Excursion Breakfast at hotel. Full day excursion to Rameshwaram,
a city of swell and gentle sand dunes, embellished with the delicacy
of casurina trees and stark palms. Return to Madurai by evening.
Overnight at hotel.
Day 12 : Madurai - Trivandrum
By road covering 264 km in approx. 6 hr Breakfast at hotel. Leave
for Trivandrum by surface and reach late evening. Relax at hotel.
Overnight at hotel.
Day 13 : Trivandrum
Breakfast at hotel. Start tour in the morning visiting the Sree
Padmanabha Swami Temple, Napier Museum, Chitralayam Arts Gallery,
Zoological gardens, Reptile house, Observatory and Kanakakunnu
Palace. Overnight at Trivandrum.
Day 14 : Departure From Trivandrum
Breakfast at hotel. Transfer for flight to the airport or station
for train to the next destination.
Tour Ends.
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