You are standing on a high mountain road. The way has been cold
and wet. Your muscles ache and your breathing is laboured. You keep
walking for this is a walk you have chosen. And over the next rise,
etched against the sky is the abode of Shiva. Here the eternal ascetic,
the Lord of the Dance, the Destroyer, whispered the secret of immortality
into the ear of his consort. Here sages have come to ponder the
cosmic, to meditate upon the divine. Here millions of devotees make
their way every year, walking for 15 days or more for a spiritual
encounter with the deity. Darshan at Amarnath is not easy; but what
spiritual journey ever was? Terrorist attacks have added another
dimension of risk to an arduous trek. But still they go to that
imposing mountain, that quiet cave, that lingam of ice. Still they
come, for the Lord calls
How to Reach
Air
The nearest airport is Srinagar, 140 km away. Direct flights are
available only from New Delhi. Both Indian Airlines and Jet Airways
fly to Srinagar. The airport is about 14 km from the city centre.
Flights from Delhi to Srinagar via Jammu
IC 821 9.40 am daily, arrival 12.05 pm.
Rail
The nearest railway station is Jammu Tawi. All major Indian states
are connected to Jammu via rail. Train bookings usually have to
be made at least a month ahead, specially during the month of
the yatra.
Road
Jammu is well-connected to places in north India by National Highway
1A and other major all-weather roads. Buses and jeeps are available
for Pahalgam or Srinagar. You can make reservations for vehicles
at the Tourist Reception Centres in any of these places. There
is no motorable road to the cave. A bus takes you to Chandanwari
from Pahalgam (16 km) through a dusty course, which is steep and
narrow and barely allows for two-way traffic.
From Chandanwari, which is the first base camp for the trek,
ponies, dolis or dandis (palanquin) and porters are available
to the cave and back. The doli comprises a seat balanced on four
wooden logs. This is carried by four to eight men all the way
up to the cave and back. It is advisable to take a pony although
for regular trekkers the walk is not difficult. You may also want
to hire a porter to carry your luggage.
The road connecting Jammu to Srinagar, National Highway 1A, is a
good all-weather road with only a few sharp inclines and hair-pin
bends. All reservations can be made at the tourist centres in Jammu,
Srinagar or Pahalgam. Buses are available to all major destinations.
Sights to Visit
Chandanwari is 16 km from Pahalgam
and is the starting point of the Amarnath yatra. The road from
Pahalgam to Chandanwari is along the Lidder lake. Chandanwari,
a small picturesque valley about 6,500 feet above sea level. The
climb to Pissu Top is steep. Here is where you meet the rest of
the pilgrims, all moving toward one destination. The mountain
appears quite out of the blue and it is an incredible sight. One
is usually on the pony during this initial climb. Thereafter,
the trek is on fairly level ground and only very slightly steep.
What is actually dangerous about the trek is the movement of people
both ways (the track is barely enough to accommodate people in
single file). It is advisable for the trekkers to walk on the
inner track, towards the mountain-face. It becomes a lot trickier
when it begins to rain, and the ground takes little time to turn
into slush. Good shoes are a prerequisite here. Army jawans are
everywhere and will give you a hand or even take you all the way
should you need help. There is an infectious kind of kinship that
forms between all the yatris and everyone tries to help. It is
a delight to drink from the ice cold springs and waterfalls along
the way.
Sheshnag is 13 km from Chandanwari
and about 11,330 feet above sea level. This is a trek through
primeval countryside and once you reach a given height, the sight
of the Sheshnag Lake from the top is spectacular. The water from
the lake flows into a steep ravine where it gushes down in torrents
to form a river snaking through the valley in the distance. Sheshnag
is also the name of the mountain where the cave lies. It derives
its name from its seven peaks that resemble the head of the mythical
snake, Sheshnag.
The campsite overlooks the deep blue waters of the lake and the
glaciers beyond it. In the evening, the mist comes in, so thick,
that visibility is reduced to five feet. At Sheshnag, you have
tents, bedding and food for the yatris provided at affordable
rates. Several free langars (kitchens) are set up to provide hot
fresh food for the yatris by voluntary groups to perform ‘seva’
or service to the pilgrims. You will find langars all along the
route as well as in Pahalgam and Chandanwari. Tents may be hired
for costs ranging from Rs 200 upwards, depending on the number
of people in a tent. Tents can accommodate up to 15 people and
the bedding is more than sufficient. The army sets up camps along
each campsite to facilitate the yatri. Free medical camps that
provide aid are also found at several places along the way.
Panchtarni
The next day, you trek 12 km. The trek steadily gains height winding
up across the Mahagunas Pass at 4,600 metres. The track then descends
to the meadow-lands of Panchtarni, the last camp en route to the
holy cave. Here too, like in Sheshnag, there are facilities for
tents, bedding and langars. The army has special helicopters only
for the yatra. STD booths are also available at every camp site,
though these generally do not function. The distance from Panchtarni
to Amarnath is 6 km, but start early in the morning, to get ahead
in the queue to the cave.
Amarnath Cave
 The
trek from Panchtarni to Amarnath is particularly beautiful. The
landscape changes from flatland to rocky terrain as you approach
the glacier. The first sight of the cave is breath-taking. You
will see thousands of people scurrying up the hill, small as ants,
approaching a huge gaping mouth in the mountain. The rock face
is dotted with small, coloured squares (which are really tents).
In the distance, on top of the mighty rocks and against a pristine
blue sky, you can see soldiers in full gear.
The cave is situated at an elevation of 16,000 feet and is a
large hemispherical hollow wedged into a cliff of white Mesozoic
dolomite. At the rear of the cave are several frozen springs.
It is these springs that melt ever so slowly to form the ice lingam.
And it is for darshan (a spiritual encounter) of this lingam that
pilgrims brave every hazard. The size of the lingam waxes and
wanes according to the season, and at its peak, reaches a height
of almost 13 to 14 feet.
The cave is about 60 feet in length, 30 feet in width and 15
feet in height. The Ganges flows below the cave. Many pilgrims,
mostly sadhus, bathe in this ice cold water before entering the
cave for darshan. In fact, they bathe in all the rivers that that
they meet on the yatra, as part of their cleansing ritual before
the darshan. At a spot near the cave, is a white substance resembling
ash, which the yatris smear all over their bodies.
 The
floor of the cave is extremely cold and very wet. You will be
given wooden slippers (khadau) to wear in the shrine. Along the
path to the cave are several shops selling prasad. Sadhus are
found seated on either side of the cave entrance, begging for
alms from the pilgrims. The entrance to the cave is regulated
and the darshan, after the long and arduous journey is a hasty
affair. Much like the darshan at Tirupati, there are hundreds
queuing up behind you and your glimpse of the lingam will be brief.
The devotees sing bhajans, chant incantations, while the priests
perform aarti and puja, invoking the blessings of Shiva. For most
pilgrims it is an overwhelming experience and many weep after
the darshan, or even at the first sight of the cave.
After darshan, devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for
lunch, and continue to Sheshnag where they can spend the night.
Alternatively you can stay the night at Panchtarni, depending
on the time of day, and return to Chandanwari/Pahalgam.
Amarnath pilgrimage via Sonamarg - Baltal
The other approach to the Amarnath Cave is from Sonmarg via Baltal.
Sonmarg is at an altitude 3000 meters and is situated on the Srinagar-Leh
Highway, 85 km north-east of Srinagar. Accommodation is available
in J&K Tourism Development Corporation huts, private hotels
and tents. About 15 km ahead lies the base camp, Baltal, which
is a little valley lying in the foothills of Zojila pass. The
holy cave is just a day’s journey away from here. There are
free langar facilities at Domail, two kilometres from Baltal.
The trail from Domail to the Holy cave lies along very steep hillsides
and therefore great care needs to be taken while trekking along
this route. On the way to the Holy cave, are some tea stalls at
Brarimarg and Sangam Top. You will have to cross several snow
bridges that go over swift streams. During the rains, these bridges
are particularly treacherous. At Sangam, from where the cave is
quite near, the trail from Pahalgam meets the Baltal route. At
Baltal, riding/pack ponies, dandis, porters are available on approved
government rates. Ask at the local tourist office.
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